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RR1 • 14
USING THE RR1
The beautiful thing about it is that there really is no secret to using the RR1.
The only option you may need to change is the jumper configuration of J2, the
‘Data Restore’ enable header. By default, leave the jumper header ’IN’ or on
the pins. This will tell the micro-controller to automatically correct any errant IR
data that is received. Should you have trouble with some remotes, simply re-
move the jumper for straight through operation.
We thought this might be a good spot for some mounting ideas that may
help with the usage of your RR1. Primarily you will want to put the RR1 in a
discrete location that isn’t too obtrusive. It should be where you can easily
point your remote control’s IR data in a fashion that is unimpeded by other ob-
jects. One idea would be behind the speaker grill (if it isn’t completely opaque
to IR) or under the coffee table. In my case, I found it would still work when
positioned behind the curtains on the window sill (the IR detector was that
sensitive). Now I can beam the remote control in the logical direction of the TV
screen instead of behind the couch!
The real trick is how to get the IR emitting LED mounted so that all of your
components can see it. The optimum way would be to use a coat hanger to
suspend the LED out in front of the components and have it shine back at
them. Unfortunately this is quite ugly and could poke out too far to be able to
close the doors of a cabinet. If it will be inside of a cabinet, you can conven-
iently bounce the light off of some small pieces of aluminum foil mounted to
the back sides of the doors and reflect the IR down to the components. With a
little work, you could even permanently mount the IR LED on the inside of one
of the doors. This configuration might take a bit of wire however in order to
discreetly snake the hook-up from the RR1 receiver down through the cabinet
and along the door. So far the longest piece of wire we’ve tried was about 750
feet… no problem!! You will probably find the output of the IR LED is intense
enough that it will probably activate all of your components just by reflecting
around inside of the cabinet.
If you do not have doors to reflect the IR signal from the RR1 emitter, an-
gling the light from above somewhere will work well also. In my case my com-
ponents are currently sitting on a coffee table behind the couch until we save
enough pennies to buy a cabinet. In this case I can actually mount the IR LED
in a crack in the couch to aim it at the components. This worked out quite well
for me since the IR LED is now all but hidden from view. Hopefully it doesn’t
get yanked out the next time I’m scrambling through the cushions for change
to tip the pizza delivery guy!